The family-owned company is highly satisfied with the progress of its business as well as the media feedback. Indeed, the novelties received a warm welcome and the Geneva’s brand showed one more time its ability to create innovative timepieces.

Among these novelties, we could find the Twenty-8-Eight Skeleton Tourbillon. The architecture of DeWitt’s skeleton remains deliberately strong and is therefore very well balanced with the design of the case which features 48 imperial columns. A typical feature of practically all DeWitt masterpieces. This timepiece is a marvellous labyrinth of curves, circles and straight lines and its heart beats to the rhythm of the calibre DW8028S, the skeletonized version of the DW8028.

Furthermore, the variations of the Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon and Twenty-8-Eight Automatic featuring new cases whose subtle blend of materials is thoroughly innovative. Soft and supple 18-carat rose gold coexists in perfect harmony with Neotitanium (new metal originally used in the aerospace industry whose hardness is two times superior to that of grade 5 Titanium).

And also, the Twenty-8-Eight Seconde Retrograde. First launched in 2003, this timepiece rapidly made its mark and became a best-seller while the brand was still new. Today, the Manufacture is paying a tribute to this watch by revealing a more classical, refined facet of its personality. The Seconde Retrograde is presented in a slightly thinner Twenty-8-Eight case of 43 mm with the classical columns located more discreetly on the sides.

Last but not least, the 3rd concept watch, the X-Watch. One single reversible movement displaying bi-retrograde hours and minutes on each side and featuring an automatic Tourbillon, a Chronograph and a patented Automatic Sequential Winding (A.S.W.) device driven by a peripheral oscillating rotor, manufactured by DeWitt. The brand imagined a spectacular articulated “bonnet” in the shape of an “X” that partly covers the face of the watch. A typical DeWitt approach that intends to arouse curiosity by hiding some parts of the mechanism in a subtle game of layers.

Find out the article on the X-Watch published in Revolution as well as the PuristS’ report.

Discover the entire DeWitt’s collection on www.dewitt.ch

We hope you enjoy the journey!
With our very best regards,
The DeWitt team

Sunshine on your wrist

First launched in 2010, the Twenty-8-Eight collection offers a sleek and urban design of comfortable proportions. The dials of the Twenty-8-Eight Automatic are artistically divided into two guilloché zones. The central flame pattern is remarkably precise and lends this model a radiance and elegance unique for this category of watch.

This year, the timepieces feature new cases whose subtle blend of materials is thoroughly innovative, demonstrating, once again, the constantly fresh audacity of DeWitt watches.

Soft and supple 18-carat rose gold coexists in perfect harmony with Neotitanium. Showcased in its 43 mm case, this new timepiece is available in two versions: Rose gold/ Neotitanium & velvet black – Ref. T8.AU.011 and Rose gold/Neotitanium & taupe – Ref. T8.AU.013).

The Twenty-8-Eight Automatic houses the solid and reliable calibre DWT8AU, which offers 42 hours power-reserve. Each version comes in a limited edition of 88 pieces.

Calibre:

Movement: Self-winding
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds
Reference: DWT8AU (ETA2892)
Power reserve: 42 hours
Introduction: 2010
Oscillating mass: DeWitt Design with open-work “W” logo
Rotor:    DeWitt’s design
Vibrations: 28’800 A/h
Diameter: 25.60 mm
Balance: 3-armed, made in Glucydur
Balance-spring:    Flat
Escapement: 510 angle of lift
Jewelling: 21 jewels

Case:

Case: Round-shaped, adorned with DeWitt’s imperial columns pattern on the flanks and the bezel
Material: Neotitanium and ring in 18 carat gold
Diameter: 43 mm
Total thickness: 10.28 mm
Crown: 18-carat rose gold polished crown adorned with a ring made in blackened titanium featuring the “W” signature
Distance between lugs: 21 mm
Case back: Sapphire crystal, secured with screws

Dial:

Dial: Two-zone guilloché: internal with flame guilloché pattern, external with sunray pattern. Circle applique with columns. Large Roman numerals at four cardinal points and small Arabic numerals positioned at five minutes intervals.
Hands:    Hours and Minutes: open-worked hands in the shape of two-edged swords. Seconds: thin and elegant.

Wristband:
Wristband:    Alligator leather in black or matt taupe grey.
Buckle:    Neotitanium pin buckle, polished, engraved “W” signature

Other:

Water-resistance:    30 metres

Limited edition: 88 pieces

T8.AU.013 (Taupe Grey)                                        T8.AU.011 (Velvet Black)

A tranquil expression of time

DeWitt revisits one of its leading models, the Seconde Retrograde by offering a more classical and refined version that comes in a limited edition of 88 pieces.

The Seconde Retrograde is presented in a slightly thinner Twenty-8-Eight case, conveying a great impression of lightness. The contrasting mix of 18k rose gold together with grade 5 Neotitanium produces an effect of classicism tempered with innovation, in line with the Manufacture’s identity.

The alternating brushed, polished and micro-blasted finishes on the bezel and the case create a subtle play of light. Furthermore, the size and relief of the different guilloché areas gives the galvanic black dial a fascinating depth of colour. As a result, the dial of the Twenty-8-Eight Seconde Retrograde catches the light with every movement of the wrist, recalling the luminous rays of the sun.

The Twenty-8-Eight Seconde Retrograde is powered by the Calibre DW1102. Its frequency of 28,000 vibrations per hour gives it a very high degree of precision that, together with its solid 40-hour power reserve, ensures this model will appeal to all lovers of exceptional mechanical watches.

 
Calibre :
Movement: Self-winding mechanical movement with an Agenhor retrograde second module
Functions: Hours, minutes, retrograde second
Reference no.: DW1102 (ETA 2892)
Power reserve: 40 hours
Launch: 2003
Frequency: 28,800 vibrations/hour
Rotor: DeWitt design with open-work “W” logo
Balance: 3 arms, in Glucydur
Spiral: Flat
Escapement: 51° angle of lift
Jewelling: 31 jewels
Diameter: 29.20 mm
Total height: 5.45 mm
Special finishes: “Côtes de Genève” decoration on bridges

Case :
Case: Round, with DeWitt Imperial columns on sides and bezel. Polished and micro-blasted finishes.
Material: 18K rose gold and grade 5 Neotitanium
Diameter: 43 mm
Total thickness: 11.26 mm
Crown: Polished rose gold with insert of blackened titanium and “W” signature
Distance between horns: 21 mm
Case back: Sapphire crystal with safety screws

Dial :
Dial: Centre and exterior retrograde circle in galvanic black with guilloché flames. Rose gold applique circles and numerals. Large Roman numerals at four compass points and small Arabic numerals at five-minute intervals.
Hands: Hours and minutes: open-work hands in the shape of two-edged swords. Retrograde seconds  two thin, elegant hands.

Wristband:
Wristband: Matt black alligator leather
Buckle:    Pin buckle in grade 5 Neotitanium with an engraved “W”.

Other:
Water-resistance: 30 metres

Limited edition: 88 pieces

Luis Villa brought with him more than 30 years of experience in dial-making: “ I started with micromechanics which taught me how to work with great precision. At that time, I used to develop different tools and appliques for dials. After a couple of years, I felt I wanted to do something different and turned to making dials”. During the course of his experience, Luis Villa had the opportunity to learn and practice all the different professions that are involved: “The word dial-maker (“Cadranier”) actually refers to something that does not exist. Indeed one single person cannot create a dial; it takes several people, each possessing a specific know-how. It also involves a combination of several processes, such as engine-turning, electro-plating, enamelling or painting, to develop and produce high end and exclusive dials”. As a result, Luis Villa understands the entire dial-making process, from the production of the dial, to the decoration and the assembling. He knows what is needed and how to do things.

When DeWitt set up its dial-making unit, the latest technology and state of the art equipment was chosen. As an example, the air in the painting room is cleaner than in most hospitals with less than 0.1% of dust! The unit includes ultra-modern machineries as well as traditional techniques, such as the latest electro-plating equipment or historical rose-engines. But equipment is nothing without a team of skilled and experienced craftsmen. Having its own dial-making unit provides DeWitt with the freedom and creativity to develop exclusive and limited timepieces. It also enables the watch Manufacture to perform as many tests as needed, change the colours, the layers and the materials until the desired result is found. Luis also regularly tests and works on new materials and decorations.

One of the DeWitt Manufacture’s specialities is the development of complex dials with different layers and depths, combining different finishing techniques (guilloché, electroplating, painting, appliques…). This requires a very delicate, fine and precise work. The Twenty8 – Eight Tourbillon is a perfect example of such an exceptional work: the dial includes not less than 27 components. Furthermore, the signature logo, placed at 12 o’clock, is a work of art in itself that requires no less than 9 different stages to produce: from CNC cutting and carving of the brass plate, to the “crémage” (to obtain a perfect homogeneity of surfaces and layers), the hand-polishing of the “DeWitt” letters and a series of 5 different galvanic treatments.

Luis Villa could tell you about dials for hours. For him, every dial is a unique story, a dream, a piece of art.

The first race of the « DeWitt Trophy » took place last Saturday in the famous ski resort of Verbier in the Swiss Alps.

As one of the main sponsors of the Ski Team Philippe Roux which aims to train and support young ski talents, Montres DeWitt wanted to give the opportunity to all members and friends of the Ski Team to test their performances half-way through the season. All this, of course, in a very friendly and family atmosphere.

The conditions were absolutely perfect for the first edition of the “DeWitt Trophy”: blue sky, perfect temperature and great snow !
No wonder that over 80 participants gathered at the top of the Savoleyres racing piste to collect their bib and go through a first run of reconnaissance. As the start of the race approached, a couple of faces did start to look quite serious and determined.
After all, any young talent needs a pinch of competitive spirit… and amusingly, so do (some of) the less young talents.

The race kicked-off at 9:30 with the youngest categories of boys and girls already displaying impressive talent on the steep sections of the slope. It was then the turn of the slightly older junior categories where most of the participants were even equipped with racing suits and the lot. The fastest competitors had crossed the finish line in less than 30 seconds !

Last but not least, the adults and the parents, some of which were even caught discretely warming up and metalizing the perfect trajectory with closed eyes. Nice performances too, a couple of nice tumbles… but no time below 30 seconds.

The honour was safe for the young guns of the Ski Team Philippe Roux !

In the evening, a nice cocktail and prize giving ceremony was organized at the beautiful and brand new “Boutique Michaud” located on Verbier’s main shopping avenue.

The winners received their trophies and medals, while others (loudly) applauded … and admired some of the DeWitt novelties displayed around the boutique.

Click below for ranking:

Electroplating is a fully-fledged art that plays an essential role in watchmaking. Also referred to as electrodepositing it is an electrolytic process during which metal objects are covered by a thin layer of a different metal.

Electroplating is a very useful process with numerous applications that can be found in jewellery, automotive parts, metal machine components, connector technology, hardware and many others. The process is mainly used to protect objects or for aesthetic purposes. In the early days of electroplating it was even used in art, particularly for sculptures.

In watchmaking, electroplating is mostly used on parts, such as bridges and plates, as well as on the dials. The purpose of this technique is either to protect a part or to decorate it by applying layers of rhodium, gold, silver or metal alloys. The thickness of the metal layer can vary between 0,01 mm (sometimes even less), for a special plating deposit called a ‘strike’ or ‘flash’, to 0.20 mm.

There are mainly two processes in electroplating:

• Mono-layer coating, a process that consists in uniformly applying a one-coat plating using a low electric current (e.g. white gold rhodium plating);

• Multi-layer coating, which allows to undercoat metals that are not adapted to chemical coating at first as well as apply several layers of coating on top of each other or to combine them. This technique also enables obtaining special colors that cannot be achieved with just one layer.

In some cases, when the type of metal does not permit mono-layer or multi-layer coating at first (like titanium or aluminium for example), the pieces need to go through an anodizing process. This treatment uses an acid bath and by applying an anodic electric current it enables to make a metal porous, thus permitting to colorize it afterwards.

The artistic outcome in electroplating depends on several factors: the temperature of the bath, the strength of the electric current, the duration of the bath, the concentration of the elements composing the electrolyte (gold, indium, cobalt, etc….) as well as the recipient metal used will all have an impact on the metal brilliance, the tint and its intensity; a complex process that requires a lot of tests in order to find the combination to obtain the desired color. The key ingredient lies however in the hands, creativity and know-how of the craftsman.

Very few watch manufactures possess their own electroplating workshop and DeWitt is one of them. This installation represents a substantial investment for state of the art equipment. The electroplating department includes several tanks, each containing a different bath (specific solution) to perform the different steps of the process (cleaning, plating, drying etc…). DeWitt owns one of the most important electroplating installation in the watchmaking industry which enables to perform in-house treatments for about 100’000 pieces per year.

At the DeWitt manufacture, Jean-Paul has been entrusted with electro-plating. With more than 25 years of experience, Jean-Paul has gained his expertise in electro-plating working in jewellery and the automobile industry before joining DeWitt in 2003.

This specialist and passionate man combines all the skills required by this technical and delicate task, which requires meticulous work, precision and above-all patience, since the preparation phase can take even longer than the electroplating process.

At DeWitt, Jean-Paul mainly treats dials, with layers from 0.1 to 1 micron as well as movement, parts (bridges and plates), with layers ranging from 2 to 5 microns.

The first step is the preparation phase during which the pieces to be treated are placed on racks. Then the racks are placed in a first special bath to obtain pieces that have been perfectly degreased and cleaned. This is a crucial phase necessary to ensure a successful electroplating process.

Then Jean-Paul can move to the electroplating: “A good electroplating technician can be compared to a great chef, it is all about finding the perfect recipe. And it is with experience and taste for beautiful things, that recipes can be customised”, explains Jean-Paul. “Like with any recipe, the cooking time is essential; with just two extra seconds in a bath, you may need to start everything over!”

SHOW ME YOUR MANUFACTURE!
How detailed, how complex, and how perfectly finished are DeWitt dials? The first two declinations of the Twenty-8-Eight Tourbillon gave a perfect demonstration of what DeWitt’s in-house dial-making unit is capable of releasing. But today, time has come to focus on the mechanics and to proudly and fully exhibit another segment of the Manufacture’s know-how: movement construction. Therefore, what better than a skeleton watch revealing DeWitt’s historical DW8028, the first 100% Manufacture movement?

DW8028 – NEVER CHANGE A WINNING TEAM

The DeWitt calibre DW8028 uses age-old, recognized and highly reliable technical parameters in its construction: 18’000 A/h, a variable-inertia balance, a 44° angle escapement and 72 hours power reserve. Why change a winning team?

Calibre:

Movement: Mechanical and skeletonized manually wound movement integrating a Tourbillon manufactured by DeWitt. Hand-finished
Functions: Hours, minutes
Reference: DW8028S
Power reserve: 72 hours
Introduction: 2012
Vibrations: 18’000 A/h
Balance: Variable-inertia balance
Spiral: Straumann Hairspring® with Phillips curve sequenced at 2.5 Hz.
Escapement: 44° angle of lift
Jewelling: 19 jewels
Diameter: 14,6’’ (33 mm)
Total height: 6,10 mm
Number of components: 185

Case:

Case: Round-shaped, adorned with DeWitt’s imperial columns pattern on the flanks
36 baguette-cut diamonds and 104 brilliant-cut diamonds for the Haute Joaillerie version (T8.TH.009)
Material: 18-carat white or rose gold
Diameter: 43 mm
Total thickness: 10,78 mm
Crown: 18-carat white or rose gold polished crown adorned with a ring made in blackened titanium featuring the “W” signature
Distance between lugs: 21 mm
Case back: Sapphire crystal

Hands:

Hands: Hours and Minutes: Open-worked hands in the shape of two-edged swords

Wristband:

Wristband: Chocolate-brown or matt black alligator leather
Buckle: 18-carat white or rose gold pin buckle, polished, engraved “W” signature

Other:

Water-resistance: 30 meters

In contemporary Haute Horlogerie, DeWitt is now one of the very few watchmakers to perpetuate the art of guilloché on historical rose-engine machines.
Dating back to the 16th century, the art of guilloché engraving is probably one of the oldest professions in watchmaking. It was used in watchmaking first on dials as early as 1650 and for decorating the watch cases from 1770.

Particularly well known in the field of exclusive watchmaking, the guilloché technique was, however, also used to decorate many other small luxurious objects including expensive pens, snuff boxes and jewellery. Although used mainly on precious metals, such as gold or silver, guillochage was also used on organic materials such as wood, ivory or even coconut.

Guilloché is an engraving technique in which a very precise repetitive pattern is mechanically etched into an underlying material with the finest detail. To execute such patterns, two types of machines are used. The first enables the engraving of straight lines or undulations, whereas the second type is specifically designed for circular patterns.

However, the principle is the same in both cases: a smooth plate, fixed to the guillocheuse, follows a regular vertical or circular movement (depending on the type of machine) and is decorated by a burin attached on a horizontal axis. Different shaped rotating wheels, operated manually and also called “rosettes”, guide the movement of the guillocheuse to create a circular pattern. To engrave straight lines or wave patterns, the machine is guided by different shaped “rakes” that are positioned vertically.

The lines of the patterns have a width that varies between 0.1 to 0.5 mm, while the depth of the engraving varies between 3 to 4 hundredth of millimetre, less than the thickness of a human hair ! The quality and the complexity of these miniature engravings thus depend entirely on the dexterity and delicate touch of the guillocheur, for whom the machine is only an extension of his hands. He must be careful not to carve too deeply and ensure that a consistent force is applied for each thread.

Guillochage offers an infinity of possibilities in terms of artistic patterns depending on the shape, the spacing between the lines and the way they intersect with each other. “Rosettes” and “rakes” represent the repertoire of the guillocheur, and an important part of his artistic work is to imagine new combinations of shapes and to apply them in such a way that they will produce a harmonious and pleasing pattern.

Although modern machines exist today, there is no substitute for the beauty and elegance of hand-engraved guilloché. This traditional technique can only be executed using original rose-engine machines from the 18th, 19th and 20th century. These machines are very rare and require that the master guillocheur restores and maintain them with great care. Very often, these craftsmen will also need to develop their own specific tools and sometimes setting the machines or adapting the tools will require more time than the engraving itself.

There are no schools and only a handful of guillocheurs worldwide, which explains why the traditional art of guilloché engraving is only the privilege of a few prestigious watch manufactures and reserved to high-end timepieces.
At DeWitt, Nickolas, master guillocheur, passionately cultivates the secrets of this art on the Manufacture’s three historical machines.

November saw watchmakers DeWitt play host to a number of watch aficionados at Kronometry 1999 in London. The boutique, which enjoys a perfect location among the luxury goods stores on New Bond Street, is dedicated to prestige watches and has its own presentation lounges which are ideal for providing personalised hospitality.

Head of Kronometry 1999 Walter Ronchetti was joined by Jérôme de Witt, president of the brand which bears his name, and around a dozen fans of the Geneva-based manufacture for what turned out to be a most entertaining evening. The boutique was closed to the public, and the guests were treated to a viewing of a number of the watches which have made DeWitt famous, including the Twenty-8-Eight Regulator A.S.W Horizons and the Academia Blackstream Chronograph. Jérôme de Witt has always enjoyed events of this kind, since they give him an exclusive opportunity to discuss and share his unique approach to watchmaking – one that combines a respect of tradition with a contemporary outlook.

As well as having the chance to admire some exceptional pieces, the collectors were also able to get some hands-on watch-making experience, under the “watchful” eye of international head of sales Thibaud Jaouen. This exercise gave the guests a genuine insight into the minute detail and meticulous care and attention required to assemble a DeWitt. And once the hard work was over, it was time for a well-earned dinner around a table which had been set up within the store especially for the event.

DeWitt Manufacture would like to thank all those who took part in the event for their dedication and enthusiasm, and of course the whole team at Kronometry 1999 in London.

Kronometry 1999 Boutique

106, New Bond Street

London W1S 1DN

Tel: + 44 (0) 20 7499 1434

london@kronometry1999.com